Picture This: Northern Thailand and Laos

Sawatdee Kaa and Sabaidee

2010-01-17T15:11:00.000-08:00

Let's just say I needed this trip.

The day after Christmas 2009, I hooked up with a group of 14 other photographers and set off for a 15-day journey of international photographic discovery. Destination: Northern Thailand and Laos. Our group was under the leadership and tutelage of the talented Ron Zak, a travel photography veteran who brilliantly manages to bring out the best in his students, subtly encouraging us to see the world in a new or different light.

Or maybe it was just me. I certainly was in a place where I was craving - requiring - inspiration, retrospection, creativity. And I found it. Not only in the amazing locales that we visited, but in the very group of souls with whom I shared the journey. To be surrounded by artistic, talented, interesting, smart, supportive, encouraging, new people was every bit as worthwhile as the travel. I was the new kid on the block - the rest of the group has been traveling and shooting together for years all over the world - and I thank everyone for making me feel so welcome. I dare say I've made many new friends. 15 to be exact.

That being said, the travel was what brought us all together.

Thailand was first on the docket. We weren't headed for the sun-drenched beaches of Southern Thailand, or the debauchery-filled streets of Bankok; rather, the mountainous, jungle-filled north, more attune to agriculture than tourism (a scene that's changing rapidly, but still, outside of the cities rice paddies and teak forests rule the landscape). The elevation brought us temperate weather, even cool nights; fog clung to the hills every morning, not so unlike home here in the Bay Area.

From Thailand, it was on to the even more remote and undiscovered Laos for the bulk of the trip. Our initial introduction to the country was via a three day longboat ride down hundreds of miles of the majestic Mekong River, where hours would go by without so much as a sign of human habitation. The country's communist moniker, the People's Democratic Republic (PDR) of Lao, is also affectionately refered to as "Please Don't Rush" Lao... and that pretty much says it all. As a land that's only been open to tourism since 1990 as a result of economic necessity, it is by far the least traveled nation in Southeast Asia. But that is changing swiftly. I urge you to get there sooner rather than later; I understand the sleepy country I witnessed is a bustling metropolis compared to only a few short years ago.

The time went by too quickly - but thankfully, I came home with many megabytes of digital memories; pixels that will remind me of the phenomenal adventure in my travel-less months ahead.

I plan to make a book with some of the images featured in this blog (stay tuned), as well as make prints available for sale. So if you see anything you like, just let me know. Gotta fund my next adventure somehow! :) The group will also be having an exhibit sometime this Spring in Benicia. Again, stay tuned!

Monks

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You can't help but be drawn to them, to photograph them. The monks are all beautiful - their saffron robes against their dark skin, their closely shaved heads. I find the look stunning and exotic - it's not exactly a sight you see every day here at home. I found the Thai monks to be more shy, more earnest; the Lao monks to be more friendly, outgoing, eager to converse. In any case, they were gentle and accommodating; I, in turn, hope I was respectful and appropriate in my interactions with them. Thought I'd start this blog out with a bang; these are some of my favorite images of the trip.

Giving Alms

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In the cold, pre-dawn darkness, we waited. It wasn't long before throngs and throngs of saffron-robed monks took to the streets of Luang Prabang for their daily ritual of collecting alms. (There are more than 4,000 monks in this small city of 100,000.) They had already been up, the first of their daily worship sessions under their belts, before hitting the streets, barefoot and humble, to receive the offerings proffered by the locals that would feed them for the day. Monks eat two meals a day (breakfast and lunch only), but are not allowed to shop or cook for themselves. Therefore, they rely on the generosity of their communities and families, and their daily rounds are a stirring sight to behold. I was very touched by it all. The generosity of some of the poorest people on the planet reminded me that I have a long way to go.

"Happiness does not come from having much,
but from being attached to little. "
Venerable Cheng Yen

Monks in the Modern World

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At the end of the day, most robed monks are just regular Joes. Students, tradesmen, even hoodlums. They are not bound to be men of the cloth, simply boys fulfilling their religious obligation (single men/boys in Laos are required to study as monks for a minimum of three months), or obtaining a free education (otherwise, education - even a public education - costs money, of which there is precious little to go around). One of the members of our group came up with an apt analogy: the monks robes are akin to a Catholic school uniform. So throw out your notions that all monks are pious and devout. They very well may be, but real world diversions - cell phones, cigarettes, tattoos - are part of the culture as well.

Village Life

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Village life among the hill tribe people of Thailand and Lao is simple. The homes are basic - built on stilts and made mostly of bamboo with thatched roofs. The wealthier villagers might have a home made of concrete or cinder block. They sleep on hard platforms; survive on what they can grow, raise or gather. Paved roads are virtually nonexistent; running water sporadic. The people are desperately poor. And yet, it's not the "untouched" version of life we might idealize; however remote and rustic a village might be, they are not immune to outside influence. Shiny new motorcycles zip over the dirt paths, and nearly every village sports a huge satellite dish. The children mostly wear Western-style clothes, in various stages of tatter (rags that are immediately shed, we quickly learned, as soon as the visitors to the village begin their retreat).

Critters

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There's something about how effortlessly animals are integrated to daily life in this part of the world. It's more pronounced in the villages, but true in the cities as well. There's a dog in every doorway, chickens in every yard, pigs, kittens and ducks scurrying underfoot. But "pets" doesn't necessarily apply - in the villages especially, the animals are destined for the dinner table. (One woman in our group innocently asked why there were lots of puppies running around the village, but not really any adult dogs. The answer? They eat them, of course. The exception are the cats - they escape the wok in these parts, but the same can't be said in neighboring Vietnam.) Regardless of their fate, the animals, like the children, wander the villages at will, cuddle together for warmth in a patch of sun, hunt for scraps. The people absolutely know where their next meal is coming from; it's a whole culture where a "local" diet is the only kind.

Hospitality

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As we know (or should know) here in Napa Valley, hospitality goes a long way. They have it down in Thailand and Laos. The places our group stayed each had their own unique brand of hospitality, befitting the gentle and graceful people who staffed the establishments. We were always greeted with welcome drinks, and bowls brimming with fruit were at the ready in our rooms. Any request - however outlandish or trivial - was met with an eager smile and ready accommodation. It all seemed so dignified, and I felt very spoiled.

Here's the run-down of the places I stayed, in case you're curious:

Royal Princess, Chiang Mai Thailand (Average hotel but in a great part of town; located right in the heart of the fantastic night market.)
Phowadol Resort and Spa, Chiang Rai Thailand (Loved this place - fantastic, roomy lakeside bungalows. Far from the city center, but offered shuttles.)
Luang Say Lodge, Mekong River Laos (Stunning resort with individual bungalows overlooking the river. Gorgeous location, far from anything, reachable only by boat. Downside: the walls were paper thin - you could hear everything your neighbors were saying or doing.)
Kamu Lodge, Mekong River Laos (The only solar-powered lodge in all of Lao. I found the place to be gorgeous and serene; would have loved to stay longer. The rooms were all safari tents, complete with stone-lined bathrooms. Others in my group found the tents to be lacking - I loved them. It was like upscale camping, complete with the amazing jungle chorus singing you to sleep at night. The open-air dining and lounge pavilions in the middle of the rice paddies couldn't have been a more lovely place to relax. Again, you could hear your neighbors and every movement of the extremely loud tent zippers - but I didn't care. The lodge employs and largely supports the adjacent village; it's a model for the country's growing eco-tourism efforts.)
Villa Santi Resort and Spa, Luang Prabang Laos (Perhaps my favorite place we stayed. Beautifully appointed rooms, an immaculate and refreshing pool and spa, wonderful restaurant. It also was a distance away from the heart of town, but offered shuttles. Barring the shuttle, it was only a quick and cheap tuk-tuk ride into town. Located amidst lush farms, with beautiful views of mountains, lotus-covered lakes and steaming rice paddies. Can I go back please?)
Lao Plaza Hotel, Vientiane Laos (A big, modern, urban hotel. Nice, but nothing to write home about.)

Farming

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Farming is simply a way of life in this part of the world. Outside of the main cities, the villagers are primarily subsistence farmers - especially in Laos - where they grow what they eat. No farming = no food. The gardens, however humble, are stunning and lush. If only my garden were so lovely!

Elevated herb gardens are situated outside of nearly every household. They are placed on stilts and covered with netting to keep the village animals and birds from "sharing."

During this time of year - the Dry Season, when the waters of the rivers are low - the villagers plant hearty crops like peanuts and sweet potatoes in the fertile, sandy banks. When the rains come and the waters rise during the Monsoon Season, the gardens are washed away.

Rice, Rice, Baby

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The largest staple of the Thai and Lao diets is rice, by far. Steamed rice for the most part in Thailand, and the wonderful glutinous sticky rice in Lao (one of my absolute favorite foods in the world). The rice paddies canvas the landscape, most still plowed with the help of the revered water buffalos (although "Chinese water buffalos" - tractors - are starting to crop up more and more). People busy themselves with rice for hours a day: planting it, harvesting it, selling it, drying, preparing, cooking and eating it. It would be quite a different place without it.

To Market, To Market....

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If you know me, you know that my favorite places to visit on this trip were the markets. Specifically, the food markets (although the bustling night markets with their different wares were amazing as well... just not quite as edible!). Every city had one, but my favorite food market, hands down, was the morning market in Luang Prabang. Block after block of narrow streets were lined with vendors displaying their stunning commodities with obvious pride. Copious amounts of produce, grains, live and recently alive animals, fish, prepared foods... it was a feast for the senses.

River weed

Peanuts, aubergines

Thai chilis, greens?, bananas

Thai chilis

Banana flowers

Rambutan

Dried rats

Herbs

Bok Choy

Scallions

Banana flower blossoms

Dragonfruit

Parsnips

Potatoes, marigolds, eggplant

Tomatos, limes, apples

Soup herb and spice blends

Drying water buffalo meat

River snails

Fish

And more fish

Dried fish

Eggs

Chicken, always with their feet prominently displayed (the feet are prized parts).

The butcher shop - open air, complete with the butcher climbing all over the table.

The meat was precious and expensive, but you could find nearly any kind (beef, pork, venison, water buffalo, etc.), and certainly every last bit of the animal (offal, heads, hooves, etc.). Nothing goes to waste.

Brains with your breakfast?

In the Kitchen

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With little exception, kitchens are all outdoors, and cooking is mostly done over an open fire. That's true for homes as well as restaurants. It's a fancy place if the fire is powered by a gas flame. Also with very little exception the cooking is done in a wok. If not a wok, then speared on a stick or boiled in a big pot. Simple tools, but the food is delectable no matter how or where prepared.

Street Food

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I have met my match. The Thai and Lao people LOVE food. Maybe more than me. In Thailand, the standard greeting between friends is not "Hello" or "How are you?" but rather, "Have you eaten?" I love that - happy bellies equal happy people. The street food was perhaps my favorite cultural aspect of the trip (actually - not true - the Buddhism trumps all). But still - the street food was spectacular. The distinction between street food and restaurant fare was often not all that pronounced. Most restaurants had street-side counters selling take away in addition to their more formal seated service ("formal" being a very relative term). But restaurants aside, you could walk down any old sidewalk and find good eats out of carts, off of portable grills, from women carrying hand baskets or at impromptu stands. From the soft plump dumplings with fillings both savory and sweet, to steamed packets of fish wrapped in banana leaves, to fresh-wrapped spring rolls, to fresh fruit juices, to anything grilled (bananas, ears of corn, hot dogs, meatballs, chicken legs, whole fish....) - it would be impossible to not find something that would suit your tastebuds. And it was all dirt cheap - you could eat on the street for mere pennies, literally. I tried valiantly to taste it all, in the name of research. You can thank me later.

Noodling Around

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The one thing that I ate over and over and over again while on this trip was noodle soup. I couldn't get enough of it. Chicken, beef, pork, duck, vegetarian - it didn't matter. It was hot, it was delicious, it was ridiculously cheap. When I came down with a nasty sore throat, I quite literally survived on the stuff for three days straight - breakfast, lunch and dinner. Noodle shops abound, but thanks to our guides, the best local spots were pointed out to us in each of our destinations. So from day one, I was hooked.

The vermicelli is prepared with a quick dunk in scalding water, then added to a flavorful, steaming broth with meat and veggies.

You added condiments at your table, which was always stocked with fish sauce, chili sauce, straight MSG powder, and if you were lucky, packets of pork rinds. And the soup would always come with a bowl of fresh goodies to add as you please as well (very similar to Pho): green onions, cilantro, lime, chili, etc. I was craving it so badly when I got home, but was WAY too lazy to make it from scratch, that I bought a packet of Top Ramen noodles and did a semi-homemade approximation. I can't believe I just admitted that.

So What Else Did I Eat?

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So with all of the noodle soup I was ingesting, you'd think there'd be room for little else. Au contraire mon frere. The food throughout the journey was delicious, and I tried just about everything placed in my path. Soups, stir frys and curries of every variety; pad Thai; spring rolls - fresh and fried; basket after basket of sticky rice; fish, sausage, veggies; fresh, fresh fruit. There was a scale in one of my hotel rooms. Needless to say, I didn't use it.

And if I may, I'd like to recommend and excellent book if you want some insight to my culinary experiences on this trip, learn more about the scrumptious food in this part of the world, and read a lovely account of the Lao people and country as well: Ant Egg Soup, The Adventures of a Food Tourist in Laos. It's an excellent read - I couldn't put it down.

Beer

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So if what I mostly ate was noodles, what I mostly drank was beer. I felt a bit like a pirate - I totally get why men at sea historically have relied on beer. When it's freaking hot outside, and you want something cold, refreshing, and not sickly sweet like a soda, and another bottled water just wouldn't do the trick... there was always beer. Icy. Cold. Beer. (Cue Homer Simpson voice.) In Thailand, there was a good variety of beers to enjoy (Singha, LFA Tiger beer, Chang Elephant beer), but in Laos, there was but one: Beer Lao. The Budweiser of Southeast Asia. But it goes down good when it's cold. Real good.

Bamboozled

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Talk about efficient use of renewable resources. Despite Thailand/Lao having miles to go before being considered "eco-friendly," when you get right down to the traditional way of life there, the culture is incredibly efficient at using natural, renewable resources for everything from building materials to cookware. The use of bamboo is especially prevalent - used for walls, roofs, floors, baskets, steamers, flatware, kitchen utensils... you name it. And it's lovely, too!

Meet My Best Friend

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The mosquito net.

This is malaria country. I got properly immunized against all sorts of disease prior to leaving on this trip, and took along an array of medicine to ward off even more. But malaria is a distinct possibility in some of the places we were visiting, so sleeping with mosquito netting was a matter of course. Regardless, I was eaten alive. My legs looked like mosquito pin cushions - lovely - and I was an itchy scratchy mess. I know, boo hoo.

Hurts So Good: Thai Massage

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Ok, so Thai massage. Anyone know about it? I had a vague notion of what Thai massage would be before venturing into Southeast Asia, but it wasn't until after my first session that I learned really what it was all about. Being a massage junkie, and particularly a fan of deep tissue massage, I felt well-prepared for anything. Turns out, not so much.

My first massage of the trip was at the Chiang Mai Women's Correctional Institution, of all places. I mean - a massage at a prison? Sign me up, just for the novelty of it. It turns out that the massage program is a way for the inmates set to be released within six months to learn a trade to provide them with the skills for employment once they leave. So off we went, eager to support the cause.

I quickly learned that Thai massage is more like a combination of massage, yoga and a visit to the chiropractor. There's a lot of manipulation, stretching, cracking… oh, and a bit of massaging. But really, more like pressing - hard! These diminutive Asian women would crawl all over you, move you in unexpected ways, and press down on your muscles with the force of someone ten times their size. Many a time I felt like crying uncle. The massages are generally done on the floor, without oil; draping is fairly nonexistent as well. And for this first time out the gate, I was even given these odd paper panties and head bonnet to wear (?), perhaps for modesty reasons since the massages were done in a room with several other people at the same time. But we were all topless… so go figure.

Despite my naiveté surrounding the whole experience, I came out of the massage feeling great, and would go on to have many many more before my journey was over (in private spa treatment rooms, in my hotel room, with oil, without oil, 90 minutes, two hours… I think I found every possible combination). It was an affordable luxury - an hour massage averaged about $15 - so I booked one at every opportunity. And each time, the local hospitality rang through - beverages and snacks of fresh fruit accompanied each treatment, and as always, there was never any rush.

Best Product Placement Ever

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Hello Canon?

Antiquities

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Still, small scenes that I just love.

Buddhas

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All shapes, all sizes, all styles... all revered. The Buddha.

Pak Ou Caves

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During our boat cruise down the Mekong, we made a stop at the Pak Ou Caves, also known as the "Caves of 1,000 Buddhas" (although it's probably closer to 2,000 Buddhas housed within its rocky walls). Tucked into the massive limestone cliffs that line the river about an hour upstream from Luang Prabang, the caves are chock full of mostly very small buddha statues, in every position and of various construction (stone or wood being the most common). It's a place of worship as well, with an alter burning bright with candles and hazy with the smoke of incense. Amazing place.

Monks At Work: Sculpting Buddhas

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It was one of my most treasured experiences of the trip. I had the afternoon to myself - no group excursions, no pending critiques for which to prepare - just a blessed few hours to explore on my own. I took to the streets of Luang Prabang with no destination or activity in mind, just wandering. In my meandering, I came across this small group of monks at the back of a temple, working on sculpting new Buddha statues. There was one main artist and several young apprentices. While the artist meticulously sculpted the faces or small details, the younger novices were mixing clay and filling molds for what would become additional adornment on the statues (details like the curlicues of hair). They worked in concentrated silence, but were open, receptive and friendly when I respectfully asked if I could watch and photograph them at work. I stayed for quite a while, just observing. I thought it was quite special, and an experience on the trip that was unique to me.

"Treasure silence when you find it, and while being mindful of your duties, set time aside, to be alone with yourself. "
Dhammavadaka

Faces

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Legal Highs: Betel Nut and Rice Whiskey

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Betel Nut is an addictive stimulant that is found throughout Southeast Asia. In Thailand chewing Betel Nut for a high is now looked down upon as something the hill tribes and uneducated people do, which is pretty much as I saw it. The Betel Nut stains the mouth and teeth a distinctive red color, giving its users a sinister "Joker"-like grin. And there is much spitting going on. Mmm.

The other intoxicant widely used in the area is distilled rice whiskey called Lao-Lao. Fire water is putting it mildly. Like my friend Delisa says, "Lao-Lao is Ick-Ick"! We visited a whiskey making village, and I even brought some home ($1 for a bottle), but I'm not sure if it will ever get consumed. Stay tuned.

No Explanation Required

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Generations

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Sunrise

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The Elephants

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How to begin to write about the elephants? I must admit: of everything on the itinerary for this trip, going to the Maesa Elephant Camp was the one excursion I was almost dreading. Not because I didn't want to see the elephants - quite the contrary. I just didn't want to see the elephants in captivity. I had read up on the camp prior to visiting, so I knew that the elephants there put on a daily show for the tourists where they play soccer, dance, play games and even paint (yes - the famous painting elephants!). It sounded so circus-y to me, I wasn't certain it would be my cup of tea. But I was going to find out, first-hand.

As expected, the performing act was not my cup of tea (even though the painting is really cool), but aside from that element, the rest of the experience at the park was pretty worthwhile. The elephants each have their own individual trainer, called a mahout, who sticks with that one elephant for the long haul. They form really strong bonds, and I saw a lot of affection between the mahouts and their charges. True, the elephants were chained at the foot when contained, but it seemed to me that they got plenty of exercise and were very healthy. The camp even has an elephant nursery and breeding program, working in their own small way to combat the Asian elephant's losing battle with extinction. The tourism factor becomes a necessary element in financially supporting their well-being.

So I was digging it, once I got beyond the performance (I left mid-way). The elephants are very friendly and attuned to people - I got to pet them, and feed them treats of sugar cane and bananas. I even went for an elephant ride. At the end of the day, I was thrilled to have spent some time around the gentle giants.

My Favorite Snacks

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I had three:

Coconut cakes, made in a wok over a fire fueled with coconut husks (coals placed below the wok, as well as on top of sheets of tin covering the wok, creating an oven effect to bake the cakes to perfection). I failed to take a picture of the actual cake - too busy eating! But trust me - it was amazing.

Fried banana chips. I fully expected a sweet snack, but was thrilled to find that they were prepared more like savory potato chips. Lightly salted and not sweet at all.

Ice cold coconut milk. The whole coconuts were stored on ice, and hacked into with a machete to get to the sweet, refreshing milk inside. Once the milk was all drained, the coconut meat was also a fantastic snack.

Wat is Wat

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Ornate and numerous temples - known as wats - are centerpieces of the culture throughout Northern Thailand and Lao. They are the focal points for the people's devotion to Buddhism throughout the region.

"Beautifully decorated with mirrored shards, gold paint and colored glass, wats rise out of the dusty landscape like lotuses from a muddy-bottomed lake. Inside they are decorated with fastidious representations of The Ramayana and the life of the Buddha. The triple-tiered eaves (one for the Buddha, one for the teachings of the Buddha, and one for the followers of the Buddha) sweep low, a protecting apron guarded at both ends by ornately carved nagas – snakes that keep evil away. Inside, images of the Buddha crowd the altar, often speckled with gold leaf applied by the devoted. The high roofs keep the interior cool, the burning incense fill the senses with calm and the reverent prostration of the locals at the alter is a beautiful image of their love for the Buddha." (Levent Chalmers, posted on Adventure)

Spirit Houses

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Throughout Thailand and Lao, Spirit Houses are as prevalent as mailboxes. No business, home or temple is complete without one. Rooted in animist beliefs but entwined with Buddhism, the spirit houses provide shelter for mischievous spirits. Offerings of incense, food, flowers and the like are freely and regularly given to keep the spirits happy. Happy spirits send good fortune, ensure prosperity and provide guardianship. I think I need one at home!

Worship

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The smell of the incense, the sound of the chanting, the haze of the candle smoke, the vivid colors of the temples and the symbolism of the Buddhas... worship in the Buddhist tradition is an overload for the senses. Beautiful, haunting and utterly foreign. It is practiced in mobbed temples or quiet corners.

"Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared."

The Buddha

Enlightenment, Rooted in Mud

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The lotus is one of Buddhism's best recognized motifs and appears in all kinds of Buddhist art across all Buddhist cultures. The roots of a lotus are in the mud, the stem grows up through the water, and the heavily scented flower lies pristinely above the water, basking in the sunlight. This pattern of growth signifies the progress of the soul from the primeval mud of materialism, through the waters of experience, and into the bright sunshine of enlightenment. According to the Lalitavistara, "the spirit of the best of men is spotless, like the lotus in the muddy water which does not adhere to it." (From religionfacts.com)

Fortune Sticks

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One component to Buddhist worship is fortune telling. Called Kau Cim (or often referred to as as Chien Tung), it is rooted in the Chinese fortune telling practice of requesting answers from the dieties. It is based on the Book of Changes (I Ching, Yijing). The fortune telling begins with a cup storing a collection of numbered sticks. As you sit before the altar, you are supposed to think silently or whisper questions to the deity (and your questions have to be decisive - no wishy washy wishing!). Making an offering never hurts either - it helps to carry good favor from the higher powers. You then shake the cylinder, eventually causing one stick to fall to the ground. The number on the stick corresponds to an answer, or fortune, which can be interpreted by a temple priest or read on a corresponding strip of paper.

When I had mine read, my fortune was a mixed bag. It said that I was in an uncertain time of my life, and that I should rely on my circle of friends and family for support rather than try to go it alone. Well duh!

Singing Bowls

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I'm printing one of these out and plastering it to my bathroom mirror to remind me to get to Yoga class. Often.

This Little Piggy Went to Temple

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One of my favorite moments on this trip was wandering into a wat as a family was finishing up their worship with an offering of a pig's head. Offering up animals to the deities is common, but I only happened to see it just this once. The rest of the time I witnessed the same old same old offerings of incense, candles, flowers, rice... yawn. (Kidding!). But honestly - the pig's head was marvelous. I couldn't manage to get a great shot of it - I didn't want to disrupt the ceremony, and as soon as they were done they packed it up to take home. Dinner, I presume.

Good Luck in the New Year

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One of the many beliefs in this part of the world is that spirits - literally ghosts - inhabit the trees. They can be mischievous, and as with all other spirits, if not appeased, could bring bad luck or harm to a person. So to keep the ghosts happy and the good luck flowing, the trees get wrapped in brightly-colored swaths of silk and adorned with all manner of accessories like flowers and trinkets and the like. While visiting some ancient temple ruins outside of the Thai city of Chiang Rai on New Years Eve, the locals were preparing a huge silk banner to wrap around the trunk of a massive tree on the temple grounds during the midnight celebration. With a minimal offering, you could write your name on the silk, ensuring yourself some good luck in the new year. I need all the luck I can get, so I signed right up. Here's to 2010!

Monks At Work: Making Fireworks

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New Years Eve - time to celebrate! These monks were making homemade fireworks for the midnight celebration. I wish I had been there to see the finished product!

New Years Eve Celebratory Khantoke Dinner

2010-01-13T16:15:00.001-08:00

On New Years Eve, our traveling band of photographers was staying at the lovely Phowadol Resort and Spa in Chiang Rai, Thailand. The resort rolled out the red carpet for the holiday celebration, putting on a traditional Khantoke dinner for the guests. A Khantoke dinner is enjoyed while sitting on bolstered cushions on the ground, spreading the meal on the sometimes elaborately carved Khantoke table. Our particular celebration was complete with carnival games for the kids, traditional dance performances, musical acts (enough with The Carpenters covers already!), prize giveaways, and heaps and heaps of food. And by heaps, I mean heaps. The entire perimeter of a lawn the size of 1/2 a football field was lined with food stations. Any kind of curry you could fathom, soups, dim sum, salads, desserts, carving stations... I think the food service staff outnumbered guests by a 2:1.

I was a bit in foodie heaven, as you can imagine. I managed to NOT stuff myself silly for once, even though I did a fair amount of sampling (quality - not quantity...). My favorite dish of the night was probably a wickedly spicy green papaya salad, freshly-prepared to order. The spices and ingredients were pounded in a huge mortar and pestle before being combined with the thinly-grated papaya. Mmm mmm good.

However.

As fun as the celebration was (even though I turned in well before the clock struck twelve), the meal was also the probable downfall of our group. The very next day, my colleagues started going down with nasty intestinal upset. Use your imagination - it was not pretty. One after the next in a paralyzing domino affect, my classmates were becoming debilitated before my eyes. Something at dinner the night before was the likely culprit, although we never did really determine what the offending dish was exactly - there was just too much variety from the meal to be able to pinpoint any one thing. The timing couldn't have been worse - we were boarding a longboat for a three-day cruise down the heart of the jungle on the Mekong River, hundreds of miles from anything.

I hovered on the edges and waited my turn - it seemed inevitable it would come. Thankfully for me, it never did. I managed to dodge the biggest bullet of the trip. Got a cold a week later, but that was nothing in comparison. And thankfully, the illness swept through the ranks relatively quickly. After about three days, people were bouncing back - weak, but bouncing back.

Let's hear it for antibiotics!

Gotta Love the Kids

2010-01-13T16:10:00.000-08:00

Watered Down

2010-01-12T23:56:00.000-08:00

As with everywhere on this big globe we call Earth, water equals life. In Northern Thailand and Laos, that specifically means rivers. Whether the Ping, the Nam Khan or the mighty Mekong, the people in this part of the world rely on the rivers for not only water, but food, transportation, recreation and even spirituality. Daily activities revolve around the waters - washing clothes, panning for gold, bathing, fishing. People live on the rivers in boats, or on their hilly banks to take advantage of the water's proximity.

I had the luxury of spending two nights and three days cruising down the Mekong. Another writer has already captured my experience pretty eloquently, so I'll quote now from Levent Chalmers (posted on Adventure): "From the tiny border point of Huay Xai at the confluence of Laos, Thailand and Burma, I made deliciously slow going as a passenger on an old freight boat down the Mekong River. For [three] days I watched jungle-clad, emerald mountains slip lazily in and out of view, steam rising from their peaks conjuring images of idling dragons. River folk, busy at their industry, flitted around our behemoth in their lighter and more agile crafts. Our captain expertly piloted our 60-foot vessel between the whetted jaws of the granite outcrops that haunt the length of this untamed artery of Southeast Asia, and, in time, I was brought to Luang Prabang."

It was a lazy, relaxing journey, marred only by the extreme illness of my traveling companions. To be in such a remote part of the world and know that such vast areas of untouched wilderness still exist made the world feel like a pretty big place. Until, of course, we reached our well-appointed lodges in the middle of the jungle - hundreds of miles from any roads, towns or services - to discover WiFi internet service. Grin!

Some Buddhist words of wisdom:
One day a young Buddhist on his journey home, came to the banks of a wide river. Staring hopelessly at the great obstacle in front of him, he pondered for hours on just how to cross such a wide barrier. Just as he was about to give up his pursuit to continue his journey he saw a great teacher on the other side of the river. The young Buddhist yells over to the teacher, "Oh wise one, can you tell me how to get to the other side of this river?" The teacher ponders for a moment looks up and down the river and yells back, "My son, you are on the other side."

Kouang Si Waterfall

2010-01-12T23:54:00.000-08:00

Located just outside of Luang Prabang, the falls are hands-down the prettiest place we visited. The clear turquise pools were a stunning counterpoint to the days we had spent on the chocolate-colored Mekong.

The Imps

2010-01-12T23:53:00.000-08:00

The Hustle and Bustle of City Streets

2010-01-12T23:52:00.000-08:00

There is a thrum and a life on the streets of a Thai or Lao city. Of those I visited - Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in Thailand; Vientiane in Lao (Luang Prabang doesn't really count - it's too sleepy to have anything remotely close to "thrum" on its quaint and unhurried streets) - the bustle is similar. Colorful tuk tuks transporting tourists, locals, monks... locals pedaling bicycles... motorcycles whizzing by, laden with people, babies, animals and the day's shopping... pushcarts full of everything from garbage to produce for sale.

But at the end of the day, beneath any apparent hustle and bustle, it's still "Same Same" in this part of the world: nowhere to be and no rush to get there. It's a nice pace for a change!

Details, Details

2010-01-12T23:39:00.000-08:00

I love architectural details...

Ahh... The French

2010-01-12T23:37:00.000-08:00

For the unaware, Lao was part of the French Colonial Empire - French Indo China - for quite a few years in the late 1800s through the mid 1900s. Although France's approach to colonial administration in Laos has been described as one of benign neglect, the French influence is nonetheless pronounced throughout the country. It manifests itself in the architecture, language, and perhaps most profoundly, in the food. Bakeries are prolific, and the baguettes were a revelation (so so good!).

The French influence also made for some fantastic breakfasts: flaky croissants; flavorful coffee or expertly crafted espresso drinks; perfectly fluffy and moist omelets.

And then there were the crepes. Just like in Paris, you could get a freshly-made crepe on just about any city sidewalk. While in Luang Prabang, I enjoyed one piping hot crepe oozing with Nutella, and my tastebuds were transported to France without so much as moving my feet.

One of the more memorable meals I enjoyed while in Lao was at the widely-heralded L'Elephant Restaurant, also in Luang Prabang. I had my only green salad of the trip (I pretty much avoided raw veggies due to the largely questionable water sources used to wash them) - and it was such a treat, I was tempted to order a second just to get my green fix. It was chock full of watercress and baby lettuces, roasted tomatoes stuffed with an array of herbs, toasted goat cheese croutons... heaven. And for my main course, I had a baked eggplant dish bathed in fresh tomato sauce, herbs and handmade goat cheese. I skipped dessert in lieu of more bread, of course! There were about ten of us at the table, and this lovely multi-course meal, complete with French wine, came to a whopping 2.5 million kip (sounds impressive - but that equates to only about $30 per person!). It was the most expensive meal (if you can even call it that) that I enjoyed on the entire trip. Bon appetite, for sure!

The Readers

2010-01-12T23:30:00.000-08:00

Let's Play!

2010-01-12T23:25:00.000-08:00

Kids will be kids - no matter where you are in the world - and that means PLAY! And it doesn't take much to invoke a sense of play for most children: soap bubbles, a piece of string, a ball... or even just other kids. Isn't that a powerful thing?

That's a Sweep

2010-01-12T23:16:00.001-08:00

Every time I travel, I seem to be drawn to some little detail throughout the trip, be it doors, windows, keyholes... who knows. This time, I happened to incessantly photograph brooms. Whatever!

Quirkiest Rest Stop Ever

2010-01-12T22:59:00.000-08:00

If I hadn't been there myself, I might not believe it was a real place. But real it is: Cabbages and Condoms Restaurant. A quick stop for a drink and a snack took our group to this outpost of family planning; one in a chain of Thai restaurants where "Our food is guaranteed not to cause pregnancy." It's actually a place with a great story and mission. According to its website, "Our restaurant was conceptualized in part to promote better understanding and acceptance of family planning and to generate income to support various development activities of the Population and Community Development Association." In a nutshell, it is making condoms not only as accessible as cabbages, but hip and cool as well. I bought the cookbook, of course!

Goodies and Trinkets

2010-01-12T22:23:00.000-08:00

Oooh - pretty colors! Shiny shiny! Walking the streets of Thailand and Laos can be very distracting. Storefronts everywhere burst with trinkets and goodies of every description, and the colorful knick knacks, sweets and tchotchkes beckon from afar. I have no idea why I liked to photograph all the baubles - probably because the bright, vivid hues simply popped against the grey of the sidewalk or the brown of the dusty dirt roads. At any rate, here you go - a glimpse of all the gewgaws I didn't buy!

Stunning in Silver

2010-01-12T22:22:00.001-08:00

For all of the lively, vibrant color that surrounds life in Thailand and Lao, I also found plenty of inspiration in the colorless. The blacks, whites, silvers... stunning.

Handicrafts: Hand-Woven Scarves

2010-01-12T18:44:00.001-08:00

The scarves in Thailand and Lao are stunning. They are handmade in villages everywhere, and are impossible to ignore as a memorable souvenir. You can find both cotton and silk scarves, all meticulously woven on ancient looms - no machine-crafted products here. We had the opportunity to visit several weaving villages where the women were hard at work at their craft. We even got to see the life cycle of the silkworm, shown below. The amount of work that goes into producing one single scarf is astounding - from growing the cotton or raising the worms for silk; making and dying the thread; weaving the finished products... I was humbled by the craftsmanship of it all and thrilled to bring home several to share.

Silkworms

Silkworm cocoons

The cocoon is constructed from one continuous strand of silk, nearly a mile long. If the silkworm were allowed to mature and break through the cocoon, the silk would be rendered useless for commercial purposes. So the encased insect is plunged into boiling water (above) to kill the inhabitant and dissolve the glue holding the cocoon together. The end of the silk is then located and the cocoon unwound onto a spindle to be made into thread (below). Then, in true fashion of not letting any protein source go to waste in this part of the world, they eat the plump, boiled larvae.

Handicrafts: Handmade Paper

2010-01-12T18:07:00.000-08:00

The only souvenir that I was bound and determined to bring home from Thailand and Lao was some of the area's legendary handmade paper. Not for me, mind you, but for my mom. She is a very talented bookmaker, binding stunning books of various original design by hand, all crafted from exquisite papers she collects on her travels. So I was on a mission. At the earliest opportunity on the very first day I arrived in Thailand, I started my hunt. I knew I wouldn't have time to visit the local paper-making village on the outskirts of Chiang Mai, so the city's night market was going to be my best bet. I dragged my new-found friend Jessica to every potential stall, alley and shop, and after several hours of hunting and pecking, I found a wonderful little store buried in the maze of an indoor mall that carried a dazzling array of Sa (Mulberry) paper. Here's a little history from a leaflet I grabbed with my purchase:

Over 600 years ago in the mountains of Burma, the Karen Hill Tribe people found a remarkable bark that naturally peeled from the trunk of this tall broad-leafed tree at the end of every rainy season. So began the craft of making natural paper without destroying or cutting down the trees. The Karen villagers called this the "Sa" tree (Mulberry tree). For the last hundred years, paper-makers have been practicing their craft in the neighboring mountains of Northern Thailand. They still use natural dyes and lay their paper in the sun to dry, as did their ancestors centuries ago.

Well-stocked with Sa paper, I was a happy girl. But my paper journey was not quite over. To my delight, we had an opportunity to visit a paper-making village once we got to Lao. It was a blip on the radar outside of Luang Prabang, but we got to see the Sa paper being made (many thanks to my fellow travelers for indulging my whims for this side trip). While in that village, I added to my mom's souvenir collection with papers also made from banana leaves, corn and elephant dung. I hope she likes her collection - I sure had a great time finding it for her!

Orchids

2010-01-12T18:00:00.001-08:00

More about Thai Orchids

So Cliche!

2010-01-12T18:00:00.000-08:00

Here's a couple of travel photography cliches... I couldn't help myself.

Restaurant with the Best View

2010-01-12T17:59:00.000-08:00

We enjoyed a beer and snacks at this open air restaurant in Vientiane on the bank of the Mekong River. Across the river was Thailand. If the place had a name, I didn't manage to catch it. But man - what a great spot.

Landscapes

2010-01-12T17:58:00.000-08:00

Seeing Things Differently

2010-01-12T17:54:00.000-08:00

This set of images is my attempt to channel one of my fellow shooters, the talented John Bonick. After seeing John's work, which always included a dazzling array of abstract images (he's an abstract painter as well, always looking for inspiration), I gave myself an assignment: try to see the world as John might. Where colors and patterns are the compositional elements; circles and lines are the subjects. He was finding art in decay, in the unnoticed, in the ordinary - and I hadn't seen any of it. So for a few days, I tried. These are my results. Thanks John, for helping me see things differently.

Missing the Mark

2010-01-12T17:53:00.000-08:00

The following image is perhaps my greatest disappointment of the entire trip: the wrong monk is in focus! Doh. I wanted to get that shot so badly, and yet, I hurried. From that moment on, I slowed down; took much more care... focused, literally. The good news: my friend Shelley got the shot. Perfectly. I'm not bitter. :)

As for this next shot - opinions, please. I actually really like it. A lot. But I put it up for show in one of our critique sessions, and it was mostly disliked. What do you think?